The Parsi Gara Revival: Ancestral Threads Meet Modern Glamour

Once considered the domain of older women and traditional functions, the intricate Parsi Gara sari is now experiencing a remarkable revival — not just within its community of origin, but on global fashion stages.

From Obscurity to Spotlight

After making a high-profile appearance at an international fashion gala and being worn at a major academic event in the US, the Parsi Gara sari has once again captured public imagination. While it did not feature a piece from long-standing revivalists, they expressed that what mattered most was the renewed conversation around the craft and its global showcase.

A Legacy Woven Through Trade

The Gara's origins can be traced back to the 18th and 19th centuries, when trade routes between Canton and Bombay brought embroidered silks into Parsi households. Early versions were not conventional saris but simple silk panels without borders or pallus. It was Parsi women who redefined them into distinct draped garments with identifiable styling elements. The Gujarati word ‘gala’ — meaning enclosed field — gave the Gara its name.

Cultural Whimsy in Every Thread

Oral histories from Gujarat still recall Chinese traders selling these silks by the kilo and exchanging embroidery techniques for cups of tea. Anecdotes suggest that these prized garments were often gifted to wives — and sometimes mistresses — leading to quiet rivalries over the finest pieces. Patterns embedded in Garas carried whimsical names like ‘spider’, ‘onion-potato’, ‘rooster-hen’, and even depictions of Chinese couples, pagodas, and steam engines. With nature being sacred in Zoroastrianism, floral and avian motifs were seen not just as decorative elements but as silent prayers woven into fabric.

A Decline Driven by Changing Times

As tastes shifted towards modern silhouettes and nationalist movements promoted handspun khadi, the Gara began losing ground. Many skilled embroiderers transitioned to office jobs. Geopolitical disruptions, such as the Chinese revolution, also choked the supply of traditional silks. Industrialisation further displaced artisans, and in some cases, families even exchanged heirloom Garas for everyday utensils.

Preserving a Textile Treasure

For decades, the Gara remained confined to festive wear and family portraits. However, a revival began quietly, often triggered by emotional inheritance. One designer shared that receiving two Garas as a wedding gift deeply moved her, prompting a lifelong commitment to preserve the craft. Her studio now creates hand-embroidered saris, bridal outfits, accessories, and even home décor. Notably, an embroidered art piece was chosen for display in a prominent London office, while a historically significant stitch — once reserved for nobility — was revived under modern, artisan-friendly conditions.

Reinterpreting the Classic

Another revivalist began his journey with extensive research across Asia, tracing motifs from family collections to document what defined a true Gara. The aim wasn’t merely reproduction but relevance — to make the Gara wearable for a modern audience unfamiliar with its storied past.

Challenges of Revival

Bringing back this slow, intricate craft in today’s fast-paced world is no easy feat. Each motif requires years of mastery, and a single sari can take up to 18 months. Costs remain a significant barrier, especially for authentic handwoven pieces. Additionally, fewer Parsi women are now choosing embroidery as a profession, making it harder to pass down the knowledge and stories embedded in these textiles. Mass-produced imitations also pose a threat, mimicking appearance but not essence.

The Path Forward

Despite these hurdles, efforts continue. Training initiatives have been launched across cities to pass on techniques to diverse groups, including women from self-help collectives and traditional artisans. One designer actively challenges the outdated notion that Garas are reserved for older women. His interpretations now span silk Kanjivaram saris, Bandhanis, men’s wear, and even digital prints. While purists may critique these modern adaptations, revivalists argue that innovation is essential to keep the Gara alive and evolving.